Inklings of Christmas in Istanbul Bethlehem

“They came with haste and found Mary and Joseph, and the babe lying in a manger. And when they had seen it, they made known abroad the saying which was told them concerning this child. And all they that heard it wondered at those things which were told them by the shepherds. But Mary kept all these things, and pondered them in her heart.” (John 2)

One of my layovers in Istanbul happened on a Sunday, and having foreseen this and to ensure I get to attend mass, I had previously arranged a meeting with the brother of a friend based in Istanbul. From the airport, he brought us straight to Istiklal.

İstiklal Avenue (Independence Avenue) is one of the most famous streets in Istanbul, visited by nearly three million people each day. Located in the historic Pera district, it is an elegant pedestrian street, more than a kilometer long, and houses boutiques, music stores, bookstores, art galleries, cinemas, theaters, libraries, cafés, pubs, nightclubs with live music, historical patisseries, chocolate shops, restaurants, and most importantly, two Roman Catholic churches: Santa Maria Draperis and S. Antonio di Padova.

We decided to attend mass at St. Anthony of Padua Church, a basilica and the largest Catholic church in Istanbul. Pope John XXIII is said to have preached in this church for ten years when he was the Vatican’s ambassador to Turkey before being elected as pope. It is for this reason that he is known in Turkey as The Turkish Pope; he is fluent in Turkish and has often expressed love for Turkey and the city of Istanbul.

The church is under the patronage of Saint Anthony of Padua, a Catholic priest of Portuguese descent and regarded as one of the most important disciples of St Francis of Assisi who created the very first live nativity scene. It may be in this spirit that an enormous Christmas tree stands whole year round in front of the church in Islamic Istanbul, for beneath this, a nativity scene is set up every Christmastime.

It is said that after visiting the historical place of Christ’s birth during a pilgrimage to
Holy Land, St. Francis was inspired to seek permission from Pope Honorious III to set up a manger with hay and two live animals – an ox and an ass – in a cave in the Italian village of Grecio. He then invited the villagers to gaze upon the scene while he preached about the Child in Bethlehem.

That one visit to Bethlehem must have left upon him such an impression, deepening his devotion to the Child Jesus, who borne in a manger, brought the splendor of Light to the world. May the darkness we experience in history, in a pandemic, or in our hearts be permeated as well with that Light. And may the story of Bethlehem be continually told, for God indeed is now with us – in the soul in grace and in each tabernacle – and this truth should fill our lives.

“How can our hearts be so hard that we can get used to these scenes? God humbled himself to allow us to get near Him so that we could give our love in exchange for His, so that our freedom might bow, not only at the sight of his power but also before the wonder of his humility.” – Josemaría Escrivá, Christ Is Passing By

(Honey Libertine Achanzar-Labor, PhD)